Monday, 18 February 2008

Journey's end

This is where the real journey for Mark and our virtual, geographical journey ended on Friday afternoon in the Avenue de Wagram just off the Place de L'Etoile in Paris. The tracker kept running well after Mark crossed the line and recorded all the spots where the interviewers and photographers ushered him to get the best shots! In keeping with what became the norm throughout this blog whenever Mark was in a big city, I will gloss over the geography and simply say that in Paris there is too much geography .......and history, art, literature and culture to do justice to it in a blog.


On Friday the geography in any case was not about a city but about the conclusion of a journey which had taken Mark around the world. His circumnavigation of the globe makes our world seem both smaller and bigger.... smaller because one guy has cycled round it on a bike but much bigger because in doing so, he has shown us the environmental and cultural diversity which exists in 360 degrees of longitude. It was a priviledge to be in Paris to watch the return of this extraordinary young man who has engaged so many people with the world.

I was recently at an event where Michael Palin was speaking about Geography. He said "Geography is as much about what you see outside as what you learn inside". Mark's gargantuan efforts over 195 days have given us a new perspective on the world and the chance to see it 'on the outside' in a different way. 'Geo Blogging with Mark' has been a learning journey for me and if I have managed to share some of my enthusiasm for the subject I love with a wider audience, it will have been a very worthwhile project.

When I started writing about Mark's journey, I had intended simply writing the occasional posting as part of my departmental blog for school. Somewhere towards the 'end' of Europe, the potential for a bigger project suggested itself and I migrated all the postings onto 'Geo Blogging with Mark' and since then, like Topsy, it just 'growed'.

A lot of people have asked me what will happen to the blog. The first thing I plan to do is to proof read and sort the errors then I will print out a hardcopy to give to Mark. At 600+ pages it will be a long read but I hope it will remind him of some of the places he cycled through but had no time to explore. At some point I will also 'tag' the posts with some extra labels so that the geographical content is more accessible for teachers in the classroom. I would like to think that in years to come, when I need a good example of an ox bow lake, I will know exactly where to look!

And finally, for those who liked the 'big pictures', here's the biggest and best picture of all........

I'm going to miss following that blue line!

If you have enjoyed my geographical meanderings, please consider making a donation to Mark's charities http://www.justgiving.com/artemisworldcycle . They are all very worthy causes and by giving a little you will be doing a lot to help children, young people, communities and environments around our wonderful world.

Saturday, 16 February 2008

Over 300 visitors in a day

According to the CLUSTRMAP
329 visitors the previous 'day' to GeoBloggingwithMark...
Lots of press and media coverage.

BBC NEWS web pages with a link to how HSD pupils followed Mark's journey (check out the 'Open at a Glance' window)

BBC NEWSROUND article.

The HINDU article.

The INDEPENDENT article.

The GUARDIAN article.

The DAILY TELEGRAPH article.

Even The SUN - headline: "A ride result...."

Bike Radar website article

The COURIER article.

The DAILY RECORD article.
This article also has a list of facts...

THE FACTS

18,300 - The number of miles Mark cycled.

13 - His average speed in mph.

20 - The number of countries cycled through on the epic trip.

3 - The number of crashes he had.

12 - The number of tyres used.

7 - The number of punctures.

6 - The number of pairs of shorts worn out.

115-120 - Mark's average heart rate measured in beats per minute.

2000-6000 - How many calories he burned off every day.

10-20 - The number of pints of liquid he drank every day.

8 - The number of police cells Mark slept in.

£ 45,000 - The total cost of the record attempt, that was raised through sponsorship.

Still time to donate to Mark's charities.

AP

AKA "Mrs. V"

Friday, 15 February 2008

Mark de Triumph!

As promised, and courtesy of the wonderful digital world we now live in, here are just a few pics of this afternoon's events here in Paris.....

It was a freezing day..... cold, frosty, foggy and a long wait for the crowds and the press pack at the Arc de Triomphe but it was just amazing to see Mark and his police escort approach the finish line...
...at the top of the Avenue de Wagram

Official congratulations from the British Ambassador...... Triumph at the Triomphe..... (my son tells me that the car in the background is an Aston Martin DB9 coupé and that there couldn't be a better backdrop for a world record breaker!)

Coping with the paparazzi

...and not looking at all like someone who's just cycled around the world......

Before signing off from Paris, I would like to offer public thanks to my good friend and fellow geographer Alan Parkinson who has maintained the blog so well in the last couple of days and while I was away at Christmas.

The final day...

First view on tracker - the excitement is mounting...The team are all installed in Paris waiting for the first sight of Mark.
Below is an item from the Independent's blog. Click the image to read the full article.
Also 2 articles on BBC News site: one with a big mention for this blog and the work of Mrs. V.

Head of geography Val Vannet and junior school ICT teacher Sharon Tonner developed a series of school projects tracking Mark's journey.

The two teachers have travelled to Paris to welcome him across the finish line.

Mrs Vannet said: "This is a fantastic endeavour, but it has also given us new ways to capture the imagination of our pupils.

Sharon Tonner and Val Vannet
Sharon Tonner and Val Vannet have travelled to Paris

"Knowing that Mark is actually passing through these places, and experiencing these cultures, helps to bring them to life for our pupils."

Mrs Tonner added: "Mark's journey is not just useful in helping to capture interest in learning about other countries in our world, but the very fact that he is undertaking such a journey has been a great source of inspiration for many of them, by showing them what one individual can achieve."

Mark's mother Una Beaumont has praised the efforts of the teachers, in particular the blog put together by Mrs Vannet.

She said: "She's written the most amazing parallel journey about the geography.

"Everyday she's written about the geography that he's passing through and people around the world have just been absolutely engrossed and delighted with all that she's been writing.

"She herself is very excited about all she's learned from it."

One of the pleasures awaiting Mark is going to be to read through what Val has written I'm sure and add a final dimension to his journey.

The final miles are through the outskirts of Paris where Mark will be picked up by a police escort.

Over to Val

Alan Parkinson
AKA "Mrs. V"

Thursday, 14 February 2008

Cadence...

First view this morning was of a patchwork landscape as Mark carried on towards Paris - on the outskirts of Villedomain, which is 220 kilometres from Paris ! Mark had a long day yesterday including cycling through the dark, and some surprisingly hilly terrain to pass through.

A few other bits of admin first. It's worth checking out the new photo galleries on the Artemis website. When I was blogging through New Zealand I spotted on Google Earth that Mark was passing a place called St. Andrews that had a golf course. It seems that Mark noticed it too, because he has an image of the entrance. It costs a lot less to play here than on the Old Course, but I doubt the 18th hole is quite as dramatic...Image: Mark Beaumont

According to Mark's web diary:

The BBC [are] joining up around lunch time [today] until the finishing line on Friday afternoon.

French road police are kindly going to meet Mark on the outskirts of Paris and escort him in along with the film crew. Lot of press and television interest for features and live coverage.

Keep an eye out on News 24 and BBC Scotland news. There was no mention tonight (Thursday)

Mark has passed through a series of patches of woodland, such as the Foret Domaniale de Russy, one of the remnants of the woodland that used to cover the whole area, and into the city of Blois, on the Loire (which rhymes...) - I wonder how many other place names rhyme with the river they stand on ?
Blois has a fine bridge which Mark would have crossed, and if he raised his eyes from the handlebars he would have seen the fine castle dominating the skyline, and then crossed the A10 autoroute, or L'Aquitaine, which I drove up last October coincidentally...
North of Blois, Mark carried on through a procession of small communes virtually unknown to Google ... At the village of Pontijou, I called up Google Earth and discovered that Mark was, at that point, less than 100 miles from the finish as the (French) crow flies... Another important point in the journey.
Mark continued on towards Chartres / Orleans as the light faded, with more chateaux along the route...

I will make a final post tomorrow morning when we get the first movement, and then return you to Mrs. V.

Sleep well !

Alan Parkinson
AKA "Mrs. V"

Wednesday, 13 February 2008

A stretch in the Limousin...

Bonjour once again from Norfolk...
Val is now on her way to Paris to meet Mark and team at the finishing line, and I will take you through the next few days, and try to close the final (ever narrowing) gap in the route, before Val returns to 'close the circle'.
If you haven't already, you might like to read the feature on Mark that is in today's SCOTSMAN newspaper.
Click the logo below to read, or HERE.
And why not do as I did and order a replica cycling jersey to help support Mark's charities.

As I logged on this morning, Mark was on the outskirts of Angouleme.

My favourite sporting event is, appropriately enough, the Tour de France...Angouleme hosted a stage finish in the 2007 Tour, which had an appropriately geographical logo...

Mark travelled through the area north of Angouleme. This is apparently becoming a very popular area with Parisians who want a second home. Living in Norfolk, I am familiar with the impact of the impact of this desire on property prices and the communities which can become rather deserted on weekdays. On the other hand, it can help reverse the underpopulation of these villages which have lost the younger generation to the pull of the cities and neglect of the wonderful old buildings that one comes across in these places.
There's a long list of people who have moved to France and then written books about their 'hilarious' encounters with local people and local bureaucracy.
It probably began with Peter Mayle's 'Year in Provence' in the late 80's, and a string of books has followed people who have converted chateaux, farmhouses etc... This could be one way of reinforcing national stereotypes.

Wonder if Mark will tuck in to this local delicacy at lunchtime...Image by Flickr user Anne...

And I wonder how many villages like this one (which he passed through) Mark will pass through over the next few days...Image by Flickr user jaytee07

As Val mentioned yesterday, Mark is skirting Cognac country, as seen on the map below. I'm a single malt man myself...
Mark headed eastwards, skirting Limoges, famous for porcelain and oak barrels to age cognac. With its link to pottery, the UK twin-town of Limoges is a good match. Can you guess which town it's twinned with ?
He then headed northwards through the area known as Limousin - a procession of small communes. I have driven through France on numerous occasions and can visualise the small villages which he will cycle through and out the other side in just a few minutes, such as Le Dorat

Photo of Le Dorat copyright Flickr user hmckmcg

More tomorrow as the distance narrows to Paris...

Alan Parkinson
AKA "Mrs. V"

Tuesday, 12 February 2008

A nice Bordeaux or two!

I have just looked at today's route and felt obliged to pour myself a glass of Saint Emilion......

Although Mark started the day in the Landes (described in yesterday's posting), for much of the day he cycled through a number of the Bordeaux wine producing areas, across the Gironde and the Dordogne rivers before ending the day just south of Angouleme.

Shortly after leaving Roquefort this morning, Mark passed an area of the Landes which stood out on the aerial imagery and which, according to Google Earth, is a target practice area for French fighter planes.....

It would seem that the nearest air base where the planes which do their 'testing' in the Landes forest are based, is at Mont de Marsan which Mark passed yesterday....







Incidentally, if you follow the link, you might want to beware of the English translation of Wikipedia pages - it is not always very accurate!

On their northern edge the Landes give way to lowlands surrounding the Garonne and Dordogne rivers and the estuary of the Gironde - Bordeaux wine country!Cycling from south to north, Mark crossed a whole spectrum of famous wine producing areas... of which more shortly. We have encountered grape vines in many locations along Mark's route - in Europe at the start of his journey, Turkey, Iran, Australia, New Zealand, USA, Portugal, Spain and now France and according to some research I've just done, 71% of all the grapes produced in the world are used for wine.... and the area of grape vines for wine production is growing at 2% per annum!

I have struggled to find a map of the Bordeaux wines which is going to be legible on the blog but I think this one should do...

I am not at all a connoisseur of wine but I do find the connections between wine and geography interesting. For example, in the south of the Bordeaux wine region is the area which produces Sauternes, a sweet dessert wine. This area lies just to the west of Langon where Mark crossed the Garonne this morning. The intense sweetness of the Sauternes wine is the result of the grapes being affected by a fungus that is commonly known as noble rot. In the autumn, the Ciron river, a tributary of the Garonne, produces mist that descends upon the area and persists till after dawn. These conditions are conducive to the growth of the fungus which dries out the grape and concentrates the sugars inside.

Across the river and in the area between the Garonne and the Dordogne is the region which produces 'Entre Deux Mers' dry white wine. Literally 'between two seas', the name refers to the two great tidal rivers which bound its vineyards. The wine producers of the Entre deux mers have a good website (click image to link)


Having cycled through the Entre Deux Mers territory, Mark reached the Dordogne at Branne, where I reckon he must have crossed the river by this bridge before heading into the area referred to the 'right bank' (of the Dordogne) before its confluence with its tributary, the Isle, at Libourne. The right bank region is associated with red wines such as Pomerol and Saint Emilion (hic!). Here on the right are some vineyards in the vicinity of Saint Emilion and a view of the confluence of the Dordogne and the Isle at Libourne ..... North of Libourne, it is still wine country - mainly reds and belonging to what is termed the generic Bordeaux and Bordeaux Superieur appellations. Mark cycled a lot of miles through fields like these today!

And tomorrow, he'll be nearing Cognac country....

However, as I shall be preparing to depart for Paris, I am delighted to say that Alan Parkinson my 'guest presenter' who kindly blogged during my absence over Christmas while Mark was in New Zealand and the San Francisco area, has volunteered to Geoblog the next couple of days on the approach to Paris. There will therefore, be no interruption to normal service! If all goes to plan and technology doesn't let me down, my next posting should be from Paris.

A bientôt!

Monday, 11 February 2008

Bienvenue en France

Having read the web diary, it seems that Mark went on yesterday a little further than the GPS tracker led us to believe and that he stopped overnight just a few kilometres short of the French border in the village of Luzaide....The image above, sourced from Flickr, gives some impression of the terrain he tackled at the end of the day yesterday ! At this altitude (over 1000m) in the Pyrenees the predominant land use is woodland and pasture. It is, on average, 6 degrees cooler up here than at sea level and this dramatically shortens the growing season. In addition there is little flat land. However, it is also very wet! This area receives between 1500 and 2000mm of rain with no seasonal let -up. Rain bearing winds enter the Bay of Biscay from the Atlantic and there is nowhere for them to go except up. Believe me - this is the voice of experience talking. A camping holiday in the Western Pyrenees should not be undertaken lightly!

Shortly after setting out this morning, Mark crossed the French border. It is strange to think that after six months of watching him cross national borders, this is the last one. Of all the borders he crossed, I think it was the one between Turkey and Iran which sticks most in my mind. You can reread the relevant post here . At the time it seemed to me to be a crossing into the unknown and yet, as things turned out, both for Mark on the ground and for me 'virtually', Iran was a revelation and probably the place on his route which I'd most now like to visit. But I digress.......

The image right shows the border crossing which Mark would have passed through this morning before entering the region of Aquitaine and the département of Pyrenees Atlantiques. The administrative division of France is quite complicated but basically there are 22 regions which are sub-divided into 96 départments. These in turn are further sub divided into arondissements, cantons and communes. This hierarchical administrative system is explained here and the map below links to a website offering clickable maps of regions and départements....
Despite a cold start to the day, it looks as if the high pressure is, as predicted, holding fast. The satellite image left, courtesy of the Met Office, shows clear skies over Western Europe extending over the UK - except for the fog bank over eastern Scotland!

Isobars are still widely spaced meaning light winds and with the pressure situation not predicted to change much all week, the weather is likely to stay fine with sunshine predicted for Paris all week until Friday and beyond. So for those bound for Paris, the good news is that you shouldn't require your brollies!

By lunchtime today, Mark was already at Orthez....
Interestingly, when you read the web diary for today, there is a suggestion that after descending the north side of the Pyrenees, Mark was surprised by the very rolling nature of the terrain in eastern Aquitaine. The Pyrenees are drained by many rivers which flow north and west towards the Bay of Biscay, each separated by higher interfluve areas, so unfortunately he was cutting across all of these valleys and ridges as he cycled towards Orthez. The little clouds on the map above mark out these areas of higher ground where rising air has led to condensation of water vapour in air which has probably come in from the west.

Orthez itself is situated at a bridging point on one of these rivers - the Gave de Pau. Unfortunately, as you can see below, the boundary between some low res imagery (left) and high res imagery (right) cuts right through the town...

However, the imagery was evidently captured at different seasons and so provides a contrast between the greening fields of spring and the harvested fields of mid summer.

Beyond Orthez there is a pronounced change of land use as Mont de Marsan is approached. It is very clearly visible from 'space' as a dark triangle pushing in from the coast...
This is the Landes - an extensive area of managed pine forest which dates from the 18th century.... "Most of the region now occupied by the Landes forest was swampy land that was sparsely inhabited until the 19th century. The forest was planted to rehabilitate the landscape and provide for regional economic development. Since the 1970s, parts of the forest have given way to intensive agriculture (in particular, grain farming.)Many local people are still employed in forest-related pursuits, including forestry, sawmills and papermills, woodcrafts and fabrication of paper-based products."

It's almost like being back in the southern states if the USA again! If you'd like to get a better impression of the landscape of this quite unique corner of France, click here to take a virtual walk through the pine forests.

According to the web diary, Mark reached Roquefort this evening - not the Roquefort but one of at least another three in France which carry the same name.

The 'big picture' today is very reassuring as the head and tail of the blue line draw ever closer together .....
However, I thought you might also like to see a couple of images of our very low tech tracker at school. In August the map was covered in a trail of yellow pins, which one by one have given way to red...... ...and now there are only two more to go.....








Sunday, 10 February 2008

France on the horizon

One of the things this blog has had to accommodate along Mark's route around the world has been time difference. As he cycled east, he kept getting further and further ahead of me so each day I was doing catch up with the blog. Then, once he got to the States, he was 'behind' me and I had to wait until the following day to chart where he'd been on the previous. It was, therefore, quite a novelty when he got back to Europe last week and for a brief time while he was in Portugal we were in the same time zone. For now and the remainder of the journey he is only one hour ahead, meaning that I can make a start on the blog in the morning and finish it later once he has reached his day's destination.
So, at 11.00 on the 10th (noon in Spain)Mark is already across the Ebro valley and heading for Pamplona....
The weather is again set fair for today. I was looking earlier at the forecast for Agreda where Mark stayed last night and noticed that it was only 2 degrees and foggy at 8am this morning. That is entirely in keeping with high pressure in winter. As the earth loses energy to clear skies overnight, the ground gets super cooled and the contact between it and the air condenses any moisture in the air to give fog. As the sun rises higher and the air warms, so gradually the fog dissipates. The problem of high pressure fog is particularly pronounced in valleys as cold air sinks and gets trapped .... so this morning the fog in the Ebro valley on the satellite photo of Spain. However, the fog is lifting, the sun is coming out and it is already 15 degrees in Pamplona. For the rest of the week, the pressure chart looks wonderful.... high pressure all the way to Paris!
For the first part of today, Mark was descending into the Ebro valley following one of its tributaries. Valverde caught my eye - a reminder that in this part of Spain, it is not always cold and frosty (as most of the Google imagery is showing). For much of the year it will be hot and dry and valleys like these will be the only green areas in the otherwise parched landscape of the long Mediterranean summer. The Google Maps imagery has clearly been captured in winter. In fact, much of the north of Spain seems to have been 'snapped' then - probably in the same sort of high pressure conditions which are prevailing this week. When you look closely at some of the images, they are really beautiful - almost reminiscent of Medieval maps on parchment....

The Ebro is Spain's longest river. (The Tagus is longer but it is shared with Portugal.) It has the highest discharge of any river in the Iberian peninsula and its importance can be measured by the fact that it drains almost 20% of Spain's land area, delivering a large sediment load to its mouth where it is building up a large delta. Despite its volume, the river often runs very low - particularly in summer and autumn - after the abstraction of more than half of its water for irrigation. The Canal de Tuesta, first dug almost 8 centuries ago, parallels it course and is the main artery of irrigation over the Ebro's floodplain. The river can occasionally flood badly in spring when snow melt from the Pyrenees joins run off from seasonal rain.

On his approach to the valley floor, Mark crossed this local boundary cutting through neatly tended vineyards. This is Rioja country! Tucked in between the Meseta to the south and the Pyrenees to the north and protected by the Cantabrian mountains along Spain's north coast, the Ebro valley enjoys the warming effects of the Mediterranean without the moderating and wetter effects of the Atlantc and so is ideal wine producing country.


This image shows Rioja vines in winter and is therefore representative of the current state of the vineyards as mark will be seeing them. Amazing to think that in less than a year they will produce fine wines like these.

Mark crossed the Ebro at Castejon which, and as with so many of the rivers we have encountered along his route, the arial imagery shows how a river breathes life into semi arid environments.
Apart from the intensive cultivation which the river supports, there is also, if you look closely, evidence in the form of an old meander loop that the Ebro has changed its course over the years. The image below, which comes from the Panoramio layer in Google shows the river just a mile west of the bridge which Mark would have crossed.

North of the Ebro the route weaves gradually away from the irrigated lowlands and into a landscape of cultivation which is dependent on seasonal rainfall.
Between the river Ebro and Pamplona the largest settlement is Tafalla which, like many small municipalities these days, uses the Internet as a way of advertising itself . If you click on the coat of arms, you can link to the website of Tafalla and explore some of the pages.






The 'Galeria Fotos' has many views of the town and its surroundings. I have included one below since I think it shows a marked change in architecture from the buildings of central Spain. Here in the north there is much more stone and less of the whitewashed walls and red tiled roofs.

Between Tafalla and Pamplona these limestone quarries at Tiebas caught my eye...




They are very similar in scale to limestone quarries I visit each year with pupils when we are doing fieldwork in the Yorkshire Dales.

Ten miles north of Tiebas is Pamplona , capital of the Basque country and spiritual home of the Basque Nationalists. I won't even attempt to give a summarised version of the cultural and historical background to Basque nationalism and would suggest that if you are interested, you follow the link above to the Wikipedia entry which is pretty comprehensive. The event for which Pamplona has earned some notoriety is the annual running of the bulls which takes place each year on the 7th July. On a more positive note and entirely in keeping with the spirit of this blog is the fact that Miguel Indurian, five times winner of the Tour de France is a native of Pamplona. I am guessing that since mountain climbs are
so much part of the Tour, Indurian probably cycled many times the road up to the French border which Mark tackled late today. Below are a sequence of images which I found on Flickr taken along that route....



























.....leading finally at the end of the day to Aurizberri which by my reckoning is just a few miles short of the French border.

Saturday, 9 February 2008

Beyond the Guadarrama

A change of plans means that instead of heading for Burgos, Mark is now following the N 110 to Soria and from there on to Pamplona. First, however, he had to get over the col in the Sierra de Guadarrama north of last night's terminus at Somosierra.

The image on the right shows how lines of communication often 'jostle' for position as they seek out the low points on a mountain ridge. The col here is the only major gap through the eastern end of the Sierra and is thus an important link between the north of Spain and the Madrid area. Motorway, highway, minor roads and a railway all use this narrow corridor.

Beyond the col, Mark turned north east towards Soria...
The high peaks of the Sierra which he has just crossed are now to his right and if you look at the image above, you will be able to make out the settlement of la Pinilla bottom right. La Pinilla is a ski resort! If you click on the banner above, it will link to the resort website where the live webcam will give you an idea of the conditions. As you can see above, at 13.00h on 9th February it was a beautiful sunny day with, according to the website, sufficient snow to have about half of the uplit facilities open. Below is a bit of video of skiing at La Pinilla. It reminds me of skiing in the Cairngorms - only there's more snow and better weather!


Continuing on past the road to la Pinilla, Mark descended into the well wooded valley in which Riaza is located. The municipal authorities of Riaza have produced rather a nice web site with a clever 'fly in'. On the web site here are some good images which you can access by following Entrar, Fotos, Panoramicos 360.

It was interesting to listen to Mark's interview on radio Scotland this morning (You can access it here . Fast forward 20 minutes into the Sports Weekly programme). At one point Mark was talking about how cold it was in the morning - and that, despite the sunshine evident on the webcam at la Pinilla. Low temperatures are entirely consistent with a) the altitude and b) the high pressure which is set to dominate the weather of western Europe over the next few days. This will be really good news for Mark as he dashes for the tape....The map above is the expected pressure situation for Sunday and there is little change predicted for the next few days. Winds are very light and from the south and the nearest frontal system......well, wouldn't you know it! As a consequence, skies in Spain will be clear, bringing lots of sunshine and temperatures picking up during the day but cold nights as any warmth is lost to the clear skies.

North and east of Riaza Mark has cycled over very undulating terrain towards Soria and beyond. A whole series of river valleys, mainly tributaries of the Duero (Douro)cut into the plateau and between them land rises high enough to catch the frost of high pressure nights in winter and spring as in this image from Google maps.

At 785 km the river Duero is actually the third longest river in the Iberian peninsula and the second largest in terms of its drainage basin..

According to Wikipedia, it flows in its upper course through a region which , "for the most part, is one of semi-arid plains planted with wheat and in some places, wine grapes. Sheep rearing is also still important."

Below are a couple of images of the river Duero in this part of its course. Firstly at San Esteban where Mark crossed the river and where its importance for irrigation is evident...


...and then again at Soria






Mark passed through Soria this afternoon. Here is some promotional footage for Soria courtesy of YouTube... even if you don't understand a word of the Spanish, it gives a pretty good impression of the town and its environment...
East of Soria, there were another couple of climbs to cross the 1400m Sierra del Madero and then down to Agreda where Mark ended the day. The image below shows his location tonight, poised to descend to the Ebro valley and on to Pamplona and the French border tomorrow....

Friday, 8 February 2008

A journey through the centre of the earth

I have just read the web diary account of yesterday and it seems that I wasn't the only one having difficulty with the roads! However, according to the tracker, Mark is now about 45 miles north of Madrid and bound for Burgos tomorrow. He has stopped tonight just south of the border with the province of Spain called Segovia.

The significance of Madrid, apart from it being a major milestone through Spain, is that it is one of two antipodal points along Mark's route. According to the Guinness criteria, which you can read under the route tab on http://www.artemis.com/ , the route for a global circumnavigation must include two antipodal points.

That is actually harder to achieve than it sounds as there are fewer antipodal points on land than you might imagine. Antipodes are diametrically opposite one another i.e. they can be linked by a line going through the centre of the earth. However, most of the earth's land surfaces have ocean at their antipodes, this being a consequence of most land being in the northern hemisphere. This must have been a significant factor when planning the route. The globe shows how few the options actually were .....if Mark was to avoid Antarctica, the islands of Indonesia, the Amazon basin, Outer Mongolia, the Sahara, some Pacific islands and Siberia! Small wonder that he opted for New Zealand and Spain.
Within New Zealand and Spain, there are three pairs of antipodal cities - Hamilton and Cordoba, Auckland and Malaga and Wellington and Madrid. Malaga and Cordoba would have taken Mark too far south in Spain, leaving Wellington and Madrid as the obvious choice.

However, the Guinness rules are not just as simple as that. The longitude values have to add up to 180 degrees and the latitude values should be the same. If there is a difference on either or both, the total difference should not be more than 5 degrees. Let's check it out.....

If we round up to degrees, minutes and seconds (bearing in mind that there are 60 seconds in a minute and 60 minutes in a degree) , the latitude difference is 52' 6" - under 1 degree. The longitude values add up to 178 degrees 28' 44" giving a difference from 180 degrees of 1 degree 31' 16". The total 'error' is therefore just over 2 degrees - well within the 5 degrees allowed by the Guinness criteria.

Now, there is a much more fun way of doing antipodal points.....
If you click on Holey Moley, you can find out!

Having taken a slightly different tack in today's posting, I think I might take the liberty of bypassing Madrid and fast forwarding to the last part of today's journey which took Mark into the foothills of the Sierra de Guadarrama. The highest peaks in this range rise to around 2500m (hence the snow as in the Sierra de Gredos which we saw yesterday) but his route tomorrow morning will take him across a col at around 1500m. However, in order to reach there, there were two tough climbs today. This is because, as you can see from the map below the highest ground forms a V shaped ridge with an intermontane valley. So, having ascended the first ridge (Sierra de la Cabrera) and dropped down into the valley, it would have been all uphill again!
Incidentally, the underlying geology of this region is granite, as witnessed by a number of granite quarries such as this one in the vicinity of la Cabrera ....

...and below some weathered granite rocks in the Sierra de Cabrera borrowed from Flickr. Because of the way in which granite weathers along its joints, it gives rise to these very distinctive 'tor' landforms wherever it occurs in the world. The view below could be Dartmoor or Ben Macdhui .... blue sky? ... perhaps not!Legislation to designate a large part of the Sierra de Guadarrama as Spain's 15th national park is likely to be passed this year and one of the promotional videos (by an organisation with an unfortunate abbreviation) for that proposal is included below .....


If the embedded video does not play, click here to view it in its original location.

Mark has ended the day today at around 1200m - high enough to produce a cooler microclimatic zone. These images, all borrowed from Flickr and taken within a few miles of where Mark is this evening, give an impression of the surrounding landscape ......




It could be quite cool up there!

Thursday, 7 February 2008

A barrage of barrages

First, a 'big picture' to help fix location....
At end of day today Mark had reached the valley of the Alberche, a tributary of the Tagus and was about 50 miles south west of Madrid. The view of today's route (left) doesn't give much away. The snow capped peaks are the Sierra de Gredos which include the highest peak in central Spain - Pico de Almanzor (2600m) . It is worth remembering that altitude causes a temperature drop of 6.5 degrees for every 1000m. Thus the summits of the Sierra will be around 10 degrees colder than the plateau from which they rise giving a sort of sub Arctic climate in winter. Cutting across the area from east to west south of the mountains is the Tagus but for most of its course, except where it has been dammed, it flows in a narrow valley with little in the way of a floodplain. From 'this' height, therefore, the landuse which usually helps to identify a river's course is just not visible. The good news, however, is that the nature of the valley makes it very suitable for the construction of reservoirs which will provide a theme for today's posting.

From yesterday's overnight location, the first part of today's route took Mark through another western spur of the Sierra de Guadelupe - not unlike the terrain he encountered yesterday between Badajoz and Caceres. The zig zag road on the image above marks the route through these hills. Here, the ground is too high to benefit from irrigation and so the landscape is predominantly pasture and trees...

Once across the hills, Mark descended towards the Tagus . There are very few large settlements along this part of the river and I do wonder whether it is the nature of the valley - the fact that it is quite constricted -which has hindered communications an settlement. This lack of large settlements, combined with the fact that Mark had to use minor roads, meant that there have been fewer points of reference today.

I have decided therefore that I will follow a theme rather than a route for the remainder of today's journey; the theme being the river Tagus and the management of its waters. The Tagus at just over 1000 km long is the longest river in the Iberian peninsula but it pales into insignificance compared to some of the rivers we have looked at recently in the US! As mentioned already, its course through Spain is fairly constricted - it doesn't have much of a flood plain until it enters Portugal. Just before the border is the largest dam and reservoir along the river - the Alcantara. The waters held back by the dam extend a full 50 km upstream.

With the Alcantara dam downstream to his west, Mark met the Tagus just to the east of a small dam which holds back the waters of a tributary of the Tagus. Its purpose is just visible on the image below but clearer on the next...

I reckon this is the second nuclear power station along Mark's route - the other one was on the coast of California and described in this posting. Location factors for nuclear power stations include distance from large settlements and water for cooling and the Almaraz nuclear power station meets both of those criteria. Below, a view of the power station from the reservoir....







Just to the east of Almaraz the Tagus is dammed spectacularly by the Valdecanas dam...
This dam is also linked to power production - this time HEP but it also serves to hold back a 15km lake so regulating the flow of water in the river and preventing down-stream flooding - particularly across the border in Portugal. As mentioned previously, the valley surrounding the lake is narrow and rises fairly steeply from the edge of the water so there is limited potential for irrigation here.

Further upstream water is abstracted for irrigation from the waters behind the Azutan dam .....
Further upstream still, at the confluence of the Tagus and its tributary the Alberche, there is the first really extensive area of irrigation and cultivation of the day. From here, if you were to follow the Tagus upstream, it would lead to Toledo. Tomorrow Mark heads north east towards Madrid.

Wednesday, 6 February 2008

¡Hola Espagna!

A long time ago in the mists of antiquity, I studied Spanish for a couple of years. I remember very little of it, although the quirky business of putting exclamation marks at the beginning and end of sentences has stuck with me..... hence today's title.
When you look at most atlas maps of Spain, it is quite difficult to get a real sense of the topography. This is because most of the country is a plateau. It is high enough to be 'orange' but not quite high enough to be 'brown'! However, when browsing on Wikipedia earlier, I came across this map which has layer shading which emphasises the main relief features. It might be useful for referring back to in the next couple of days.....
The plateau referred to above is called the Meseta and is more extensive and generally higher in the north than in the south. North west of Madrid in the Sierra de Guadarrama and in the Cordillera Cantabrica bordering the the bay of Biscay, mountains rise from the plateau to about 2500m while in the south, the Sierra Nevada reach a high point of 3500m well above the average height of the southern part of the Meseta. The north eastern edge of the Meseta is bounded by the Ebro valley and to the north east of that lie the Pyrennees. Three major river systems flow west and south from the Meseta - the Guadalquivir which reaches the coast in the Gulf of Cadiz, the Tagus which we have already 'met' at Lisbon and the Guadiana which flows through Badajoz (starting point for today's stretch of leg 7) and then south to the Gulf of Cadiz ....

Today's route began just across the Portuguese/Spanish border at Badajoz and ended to the north of Trujillo which is about 200km from Madrid. As mentioned above, Badajoz lies at a major bridging point of the Guadiana river. For those interested in the Spanish Civil War, Badajoz was the site of one of the first Nationalist victories in 1936. It is also remembered for a massacre of civilians which saw the deaths of at least 2000 people.
On a more geographical note, Badajoz is located at the confluence of the Guadiana river and its tributary, the Zapaton. The Guadiana has a total of 1824 dams in its basin which makes it one of the most 'managed' rivers in Europe. In the vicinity of Badajoz, a number of major gravity fed canals transfer water to irrigate land around both rivers. Below, some of that irrigated land north of the city along the banks of the Zapaton......




...and here to the east where an irrigation canal allows cultivation in the gravity-fed downslope portion of the valley but not above the canal. ...








As mentioned in previous postings, this part of Europe experiences a Mediterranean climate, although as Mark heads higher into the Meseta, he can expect altitude to make the temperatures cold. Summers, however, are hot and dry and cultivation is really only possible with the help of irrigation. Because winters and spring are rainy, when temperatures begin to rise in late February/ March, this is the season for wild flowers. by late spring the drought begins to bite and grasses and flowering plants dry up. the following image was sourced from Flickr and shows spring flowers near La Roca de la Sierra, a village through which mark passed this morning. Unfortunately he is probably just a few weeks too early for this kind of show but it reminds us that there is a very different face to the Mediterranean from the dessicated one we are familiar with in the summer....



As Mark headed north past la Roca de la Sierra, he would have noticed a steady climb into the Sierra de San Pedro across a number of low ridges and northwest southeast trending valleys. At Pueblo de Obando, a closer inspection of Google maps revealed a very interesting pattern of land use.....
a nucleated settlement with strip farming laid out around it. The image below is from the Panoramio layer in Google and relates to one of the blue dots bottom right on the image....

If you haven't yet discovered the Panoranio layer in Google Earth, I'd encourage you to seek it out as it is an excellent way of bringing those aerial views to life.

Beyond the low hills of the Sierra de San Pedro, the UNESCO world heritage city of Caceres perches above the Tagus valley. The following gives a flavour of why it achieved the designation ( you don't have to understand the Spanish !).....



The road east from Caceres leads to Trujillo and somewhere along that road Mark would have cycled past this spot and also the Guadiloba dam which looks like some sort of Chinese dragon from the air! (The Guadiloba is a tributary of the Tagus)..The rather blurry view below shows the dam with Caceres in the distance.



The road led finally to Trujillo - another historical and architectural 'gem' of this part of Spain..

Tuesday, 5 February 2008

Tiles, cork, wine and marble!

The Artemis web site diary recounts how Mark found a 'nice wee hotel' in Montemor o Novo last night....There is a good description of the town here and an excellent set of photos on Flickr of which this is just one. Montemor o Novo, like many small towns and villages throughout the Mediterranean occupies a hilltop site. Unlike the UK where villages would normally seek low ground, Mediterranean settlements perch on the high ground. Often, as in the case of Montemor, it was for reasons of defence (there is an old castello on the hill just south of the town) but in a country where the most easily irrigated land is in the valleys, there is little point in using that land for settlement. Hence, towns and villages grew up on the hilltops as predominantly farming communities with farmed land spread out below. There are other good examples of this type of site and function in other settlements along Mark's route today.

The photo above and a 'zoom in' on Google to any of the settlements in this part of Portugal reveal a mass of striking red roofs. Almost every building is covered in terracotta tiles. One of the things which I find interesting about architecture is that buildings often reflect local geology..... thus the grey, unweathered granite houses in Aberdeen or the honey coloured, edges-softened-by-the-rain, houses in the Cotswolds, the slates on the roofs in Wales etc. Here in Portugal the red tiles are made of red clay - terra rossa -which is the predominant soil type. From above it gives a rich colour to bare earth seen here on an aerial shot from Google along Mark's route today. Terra rossa soils tend to develop in areas which are underlain by limestone and which have a Mediterranean climate. I don't claim to fully understand the chemistry but the red is iron oxide and is the result of clay residue from weathered limestone oxidising. It is considered to be a very good soil for growing vines.
One of the other agricultural products for which this region of Portugal is particularly noted is cork. More than half of the world's cork oak forests are found in the Alentejo of Portugal and they traditionally supplied the cork for wine producers all over the world. There is ,however, an environmental 'issue' related to the current trend of replacing cork with plastic 'corks' or even screw tops! This WWF video explains .....

...and below 'harvested' cork
Along Mark's route today there were many small dams - reminders of the aridity of summer in this part of Portugal and the need to store water from the winter to permit cultivation on irrigated land in the summer. Many of the irrigated areas have the centre pivot systems which we have become familiar with all across the world....

It is worth remembering that apart from vines and tree crops such as olives, few other crops would survive the summer drought without the aid of irrigation. Where land is not irrigated, little will grow in the summer months. On the image below of Vimieiro, for example, many of the fields will have been harvested of their crop of wheat early in the summer and will now lie empty until they are sown in time for the autumn rains.

The image above and this one of Vila Boim also serve to illustrate the pattern of land tenure described earlier in this posting. In the UK we are used to a pattern of dispersed rural settlement with isolated farmhouses surrounded by their land. Here in Portugal, the farms are clustered together close to the villages with their land scattered in several plots around the surrounding countryside. It ensures that all farmers have an equal share of the range of types of land but it is much less efficient than farming contiguous plots of land.
In all of these images the terra rossa soils are very noticeable and their presence links to two other products of this part of the Alentejo. Firstly, as mentioned, terra rossa develops on limestone. The metamorphosed form of limestone is marble and this region is famous throughout the world for its high quality marble. Portugal is the second largest exporter of marble in the world (after Italy) and 85% of it comes from the area around Estremoz, Borba and Vila Vicosa through which Mark travelled this afternoon. The Google imagery is rather low res in this area but it does give an impression of the extent of the quarries and the image below, sourced from Flickr, shows one of the Estremoz quarries in operation.






Terra rossa soils are also particularly good for vine growing and the region around Estremoz and Borba has an abundance of vineyards which produce high quality wines.














Estremoz, is another fine example of a hilltop town clustered around a citadel.......

So also is Elvas, just before the Spanish border, which sounds like a gem if its Wikipedia entry is anything to go by.
Mark ended the day just beyond the Spanish border at Badajoz - time for the first 'big picture' of Leg 7 I think!

Monday, 4 February 2008

"Alo Portugal"

On every new leg of Mark's journey, I have felt that there was something exciting about finding the tracker in a new part of the world. Today there was the same sense of anticipation as I waited for the first 'fix' in Portugal.... By mid morning there is was - right beside the Portelo airport in Lisbon!


However, the city of Lisbon presents me with the same problem that all the cities along Mark's route have - there is just too much geography to do any of it justice and so I intend 'leaving' the city to the abundance of information in the Wikipedia link above and picking up the blue line on the outskirts.

The map left shows the route Mark covered today and you can see that he had first to negotiate the mouth of the Tagus river before heading east. Motorists who are prepared to pay the 2 Euro toll have the option of crossing the river mouth by the stunning Vasco da Gama bridge just visible to the east of Lisbon on the map.

The bridge was completed in 1998 after only 18 months of construction. At ten miles long, it is the longest bridge in Europe and carries six lanes of traffic with a 75mph speed limit. It's probably just as well that Mark went the long way round!

The alternative route crosses the Tagus at Villa Franca de Xira and this is the bridge which Mark would have used to cross the river.
The tree-lined route in the photo is the N10 which crosses the flat, intensively farmed floodplain of the river towards a settlement which is located right on the edge of the floodplain. This is Samora Correia which was virtually destroyed in 1909 by an earthquake the epicentre of which was just a few kilometers to the north. It is a reminder that this is a seismically active zone - where the African and European plates are converging - and that Lisbon suffered a massive earthquake in 1755 with a loss of life of between 60,000 and 100,000.

Looking at the floodplain from both high altitude and zoomed-in perspectives, those centre pivot irrigation systems which we have seen in so many areas of the world, appear again!

In order to understand the farming regime in Portugal, it is probably worth reminding ourselves of the main characteristics of the Mediterranean climate as shown by the climate graph for Lisbon. This is a climate which has a year round growing season but has limited agricultural potential from June to September without the aid of irrigation. Cereal crops such as wheat can be grown but they are harvested at the beginning of summer. Vegetables and salad crops grow year round but only where water is available in summer. Tree crops including almonds and olives can withstand the summer drought. Vines require the rains of spring to swell the grapes and the long, hot, dry summers to ripen the grapes and increase their sugar content.

Once across the Tagus and heading south east Mark would have quickly left the urban landscape of Lisbon behind. I searched the Internet in vain for a good relief map of this part of Portugal and so have resorted to scanning an old atlas to get a map which gives a reasonable impression of the terrain .....Mark is heading east into the region of Portugal called the Alentejo (shown in red) and towards the Spanish border at Badajoz. 'Tejo' is the name the Portuguese give to the Tagus and Alentejo is literally 'beyond the Tagus'. "The area is commonly known as the "bread basket" of Portugal, a region of vast open countryside with undulating plains and rich fertile soil. With very few exceptions all the major towns are mainly reliant on agriculture, livestock and wood".

To meet the needs of domestic users and farmers a large number of dams are needed to hold back water from the winter rains and all along Mark's route today there was ample evidence of these.....
... and of smaller 'tanks' irrigating patches of land.
The landscape of this part of Portugal is very much one of low rolling hills and wide farmed plains. Some areas are intensively farmed such as here near to Pegoes which Mark passed through this afternoon. This region is on eof Portugal's best known wine producing areas and many of the farmers are members of a wine cooperative. If you click on the image below, you will link to a very informative website about the cooperative.... The last part of Mark's route today took him east of Pegoes into the foothills of the Alto Alentejo...



... where a unique land use and one very much associated with Portugal can be found. More of hich tomorrow........

Sunday, 3 February 2008

He's there!

The beach at St Augustine - says it all really!

I posted the image above at midnight but the rest follows at a more respectable hour on a Sunday morning.....

Yesterday's route started on a campsite in the Ocala National Forest and ended on the Atlantic coast at St Augustine. The Ocala National Forest occupies about 600 square miles in central Florida to the east of Ocala. It is the oldest national forest east of the Mississippi and is a mix of pine forest, scrubland, swamp and freshwater habitats associated with the myriad of 'prairie lakes' described in previous postings. Like most state and national forests in the US, it is managed to balance the demands of forestry, conservation and recreation.

The largest concentration of black bears in Florida inhabit these woods and the advice on the forest web site is ...


"Be Bear Aware! You are in Bear Country.
Bears are naturally shy of people.
If you see a bear, enjoy it from a safe distance. Keeps dogs and children close to you. Loose dogs may agitate bears. NEVER approach a bear! Make noise so the bear knows you are there. If a bear approaches, DO NOT RUN. Back away SLOWLY"

And as if that's not enough ....

"Alligators are present in this forest. They are an important part of Florida’s ecology and may be found wherever there is a body of water. They have a natural fear of man, but may lose that fear by being around people especially if they are fed. When this happens alligators can be dangerous. For this reason alligators should not be fed or molested in any way."


Reading the web diary this morning, it is interesting to note that Mark commented on burning in the forest. Very close to his campsite there is clear evidence of how the forest is managed and this will include periodic, controlled burning. On this image you can see stands of trees at all stages of management - newly cleared, newly planted and maturing. An explanation and rationale for burning forests is given here. (Scroll down to the section on Ocala and you can read about wild fires and prescribed burning).



The largest of the lakes in the region is Lake George - location of the last alligator fatality in Florida as described here on the BBC news website! Mark's nearest location to lake George was at Salt Springs which, as its name suggests, produces mineral richwater for Lake George, raising its salinity. The waters of Lake George are sufficiently brackish for salt water species e.g. blue crab to migrate up the St John's river in sufficient numbers to support a local fishery on the lake. The image below, 'borrowed' from Fickr, shows sunrise over the lake...
From Lake George Mark cycled north to the river crossing on the St John's river at Palatka. ...



With a length of 310 miles and a difference in altitude of only 10 metres between source and mouth, the St John's river is one of the world's 'laziest' and most languid rivers. Once navigable by paddleboat steamers, there is a nice video of a journey up the river available here. Just west of Palatka is an industrial enterprise which we've become quite familiar with in the 'South' - another huge pulp and papermill...This one is the Georgia Pacific paper mill - an operation which employs some 1200 people. It uses 1.5 million tons of locally sourced pine to produce about half a million tons of paper products annually. Effluent from the mill receives a high level of treatment, first in a 360-foot-diameter primary clarifier and then during a 40-day journey through a 1,000-acre biological treatment pond system that comprises the mill’s secondary treatment process. (visible top left in the first image).

Between Palatka and the coast on the drier, sandy soils of old dune ridges, there is a chequerboard of intensive cultivation of vegetable and salad crops... and close to St Augustine a golf resort ....













Until a friend who is a keen historian told me, I had no idea of the historical significance of St Augustine - the eastern terminus of the American leg of Mark's journey. Founded in 1565 by the Spanish, St Augustine is the oldest port and oldest continuously occupied European settlement in North America...

Although founded by the Spaniards in the 17th century, St Augustine passed to British control for a while before coming under Spanish control again in the 18th century. At that time the Castillo de San Marcos (right and below)was built to protect Spanish interests in the area. It is testimony to over 300 years of history - a long time in American terms!

St Augustine also has several claims to notoriety associated with rather inglorious events during the civil rights struggles of the 1960s which you can read about here.


However, not wishing to end the American leg on a negative note, I thought we should have a final 'big picture' of the 3575 miles across the USA - it's been quite a learning journey!

Saturday, 2 February 2008

"Way down upon...."

Today's posting starts with two musical 'clues' to help complete the title.......
First some Gershwin by Gershwin. Stick with it - it gets there after 30 seconds!


And then something with a more 'folky' feeling

Now that's what I call banjo playing though I'm not sure that the bass player in the background is in quite the same class!

It looks from the map as if Mark had a long day and covered quite a bit of ground yesterday so should be paddling in the Atlantic by later today! (St Augustine is hiding just behind the 'call out' of the GPS tracker).

However, the first part of yesterday's route takes us back to the title of this posting and the musical clues. Shortly after leaving Mayo, Mark crossed the Suwannee river. Despite the difference in spelling, this is the 'Swannee River' of Gershwin's song and Stephen Foster's 'Old Folks at Home' - the official state song of Florida.
At some point in the mists of time, I knew quite a lot about the geography of the USA. I have forgotten a lot of it but one thing that has always remained with me is the Okefenokee swamp. (I guess like the volcano Popocatepetl it just sounds nice and so the name sticks!). The Okefenokee is a swamp area in the south east of Georgia and it is the source of the Suwannee river which Mark crossed just west of Banford...


Apparently all river crossings of the Suwannee announce their connection with the Stephen Foster song, providing travellers with the first few bars....







...and rewarding them as well with beautiful views such as this

South of Branford, Mark followed the river for some distance before turning east towards Bronson. What is interesting when you look at the image left and the one below is how the agricultural land avoids the valleys and is concentrated on the drier interfluve areas, unlike all the 'green ribbons' in deserts where farming competes for a position beside the river, which we saw earlier in Mark's journey across the States .

The green ribbons in Florida follow the rivers and are the swampy, forested areas which are unsuitable for cultivation.
Bronson and East Bronson may only have populations of 964 and 1075 respectively (according to Wikipedia) but the number of entries in Google relating to real estate for both settlements probably explain the huge areas which look like this.... South of Bronson and past Trenton and Williston land use is predominantly pasture and forest but here and there, especially as you get closer to Ocala, there is evidence of something for which this part of Florida is known worldwide...















Zooming in closer gives an even better view..
Along Mark's route we have discussed location factors for quite a number of enterprises from observatories to steel mills and today it's the turn of Thoroughbred breeding and training!

" The rich grazing, rolling hills, and year round pastures not available in other states, contributed to the development of the Thoroughbred industry in Marion County. The first Thoroughbred farm, "Rosemere", was established in 1935. In 1956, an unknown three year old named "Needles" won the Kentucky Derby and the Belmont Stakes, and Marion County became a focus for the racing world. Marion County boasts over 1,000 farms and training centers including approximately 450 Thoroughbred farms, and is home to nearly 50 different horse breeds. In 1999, Ocala/Marion County was recognized by the U.S. Department of Agriculture census as the "Horse Capital of the World" and as having more horses and ponies than any other county in the nation. Nearly 29,000 residents are employed in the county's Thoroughbred industry alone. This unique rural character combined with the Thoroughbred industry puts Ocala/Marion County in the elite company of Lexington, Kentucky; Newmarket, England; and Chantilly, France as the major Thoroughbred centers in the world. "
Apparently the Florida horse industry employs 72,000 people and is worth $2.2 billion to the economy of the state.

Despite an original plan to overnight in Ocala, Mark continued on east and camped in the Ocala National Forest - a vast area of forest, scrubland and over 600 lakes and ponds .The forest is riddled with slow-moving rivers and wet prairies as described in yesterday's posting. They are sunny, shallow expanses of water, usually ringed by cypress trees and filled water lilies and other aquatic plants. The largest is lake George, of which, more tomorrow.
P.S. If you are reading this on 02.02.08, you might be making the 10,000th 'hit'!

Friday, 1 February 2008

Florida...second time around

Completing his litttle detour into Georgia, Mark headed south yesterday from Thomasville and back into Florida. By my reckoning, it's the only state whose border Mark will have crossed three times on his journey. All others he's crossed twice except for.....?

And for those who like the occasional 'big picture', here's the latest one with blue GPS markers creeping ever nearer to the Atlantic...

Between Thomasville and the Florida border, the landscape of southern Georgia is quite different from the intensively farmed irrigated land which we saw along Mark's route two days ago. Approaching the border, forest once again becomes the dominant land use as cultivated land gives way to a mixed land use of trees, swampy areas and some patches of grassland and cultivation. At the Florida border, the view is like this....
You may notice one or two areas of surface water in the view above. They are just a few of literally hundreds of small 'prairie lakes' and ponds in this part of north central Florida which have taken me a couple of days to research. They are related to the underlying geology and unlike most lakes which are the result of in-flowing surface drainage, these lakes represent places where the water table and underground aquifers are intersected by surface relief. The low points in the relief which permit the appearance of water at the surface are called sink holes and represent dissolved joints in underlying limestone rock which permit access to the water table. During periods of drought, when the water table drops, these lakes may dry up completely as explained here.

One of the largest of the prairie lakes in Florida is Lake Miccosukee which lies just a couple of miles west of the route Mark followed south from the Florida border. Like many of the prairie lakes, Lake Miccosukee is hypereutrophic. This means that the water is nutrient rich and frequently has an algal bloom. If you check out the lake in Google and zoom in close, you will have no difficulty in identifying the algal bloom. below is a photo of the lake 'borrowed' from Flickr...
The small town of Monticello is named after the Virginia estate of Thomas Jefferson, third president of the United States. However, other than carrying its name, the town has no other connection with the former president. Close to Monticello some more interesting land use patterns hove into view....

I have to admit to being a bit 'stumped' by these. It is clearly reafforestation of some sort - patches of the former forest cover are still visible nearby. I do wonder if it could simply be that the trees are planted along contours to enhance the impression of relief once they grow. Any other ideas?

Also in the vicinity of Monticello are these land use patterns but I think they are more easily explained. These look to me to be areas of intensive cultivation of vegetable and salad crops in fields sheeted with polythene (plasticulture as it is sometimes called) to help retain soil moisture. You can also see an algal bloom of one of the prairie lakes described above.

South of Monticello the next major settlement along Mark's route yesterday was the town of Parry which has the dubious distinction of being a town with a bad smell and the focus of a long running environmental dispute. Both arise from this industrial enterprise....

This is the Buckeye Cellulose Corporation's plant at Foley just to the south east of Parry. It uses slash pine timber and cotton fiber as the principal raw materials in the manufacture of the company's specialty cellulose and absorbent cellulose products (most of which end up in nappies). The region surrounding Buckeye's plant in Perry, Florida(the Foley Plant) has a high concentration of slash pine timber, which enables Buckeye to purchase adequate supplies of a species well suited to its products at an attractive cost. The plant is the largest employer in Taylor county.

It is located on the Fernholloway river which is now heavily polluted by toxic factory effluent. The environmental damage has been the subject of extensive legal wrangling involving the state, environmental groups, the US Environmental Protection Agency and the Buckeye Cellulose Corporation who have proposed building a pipeline to take effluent directly to the Gulf. Environmental campaigners believe that will only relocate the problem.

And finally.... the information on the Artemis web diary today means that we can locate precisely the motel Mark used in Mayo last night. What a small world we live in though I'll bet that thought hasn't gone through Mark's mind lately!



And the view across the road this morning would have been of the Lafayette County Courthouse.

Thursday, 31 January 2008

"Georgia on my mind"



Yesterday Mark made a sortie into Georgia and added a 'bonus' state to our American experience! However, as his transit through the state will be brief, I will dispense with the temptation to 'do' Georgia in an evening and leave you to follow the link above to Wikipedia (which may well take you all evening to read anyway!)

Now, have you been paying attention these last six weeks? Look at the map of the US states - can you name in sequence all the states which Mark has passed through? It seems easy to me now but if I'm honest, I don't know if I'd have got them all right six weeks ago. Shame on me but then, that's not what we 'do' in geography classrooms these days. If you've been following the Geo Blog along the route or even just delving into it now and again, I really hope you have gained an impression of what a varied and interesting classroom subject it is these days. 'Geography is everywhere' is a truism which Mark's trip has certainly shown. Over the last six months have looked at a whole range of physical and human geography topics with a bit of environmental geography thrown in here and there for good measure. In the last few days alone the topics have ranged through hurricanes, coastal features, weather, beach resorts, forestry, rivers. And today, from a quick look at the route Mark took yesterday, the focus is definitely on land use....

As Mark cycled through the north of Florida on Tuesday, the landscape was dominated by both state managed and commercial forests. Over the border and into Georgia, that theme continues along the valley of the Flint river towards Bainbridge. Closer inspection reveals this to be an area of well managed forest. The trees are in clear 'stands' of similar aged/species of tree, there are clear felled areas with patches of trees left for habitat conservation and there are some area of young trees (in rows) on the left of the image.
There is also a mysterious line cutting right through the forest. My first thoughts on this were that as it is about 40m wide, it could be a fire break and then I zoomed in for a good look and spotted these....



so on second thoughts I wonder if the cleared line serves two purposes - fire break and power line route.

Meanwhile to the west of the river valley and further north beyond Bainbridge, a completely new form of land use is appearing .....
Mile upon mile of pivot irrigation circles. Although we have seen these at many locations along Mark's route - notably in Iran, Australia, New Zealand and western USA, I don't think I've ever seen densities like these. Their presence suggests that although this area receives about 1300mm of rain (that's about equivalent to west central Scotland), the high levels of evapotranspiration because of high summer temperatures will reduce the efficacy of the precipitation and so necessitate irrigation.

A bit of research has produced a figure of just over 3 million acres of cultivated land in Georgia, half of which is irrigated. As for the likely crops... well, if Las Cruces way back in New Mexico was the centre of pecan production, this part of Georgia specialises in peanuts. The long growing season (275 days) means that cultivation is almost a year round activity and many farmers can produce more than one crop from their land in a year. In addition to peanuts, the farmers of south west Georgia produce a huge range of vegetables as described here. That last link produced another which finally led to the information I wanted....

"Nearly 10,000 of these center-pivot irrigation systems cover 1 million acres of productive farmland in south Georgia. Tapping the deep, pure waters of the Upper Floridan aquifer, their wells pump not only water but also dollars into the region. The additional growth of high-quality peanuts, sweet corn, cotton and animal feeds, made possible as these irrigation systems fill in rainfall gaps, means dollars for the local economy." And here is you want to read it is the source.
It makes for a most interesting pattern of land use right alongside the route which Mark followed yesterday. From ground level, however, the view would have been more like this field of peanuts being irrigated by centre pivot irrigation.....












Hopeful - what a lovely name for the furthest north spot that Mark reached in Georgia! Turn right and head south and east and the land use changes again. There is still cultivation but less irrigation...

Having then crossed the well wooded valley of the Ochlockonee, the last GPS 'fix' yesterday was just north of Thomasville which you can enjoy a flavour of below...

Wednesday, 30 January 2008

Meanderings....

I am writing the blog late today as I have spent ages on-line this evening booking tickets for going to Paris! If you are reading this and you are also to be in Paris, I look forward to meeting you and celebrating together Mark's most amazing achievement. But to get back to yesterday....The first meandering mentioned in the title of today's posting is the route which Mark took yesterday. Having imagined him to be on a course due east to the Atlantic, it was a bit of a surprise seeing him suddenly change direction and head north. All was explained later in the web diary ... the wee detour is to add up some extra miles... as you do when you've already done about 16,500! The benefit of the change of direction is also that it lets us look at a different sort of environment to the one we've been looking at in the last couple of days.

However, we've not quite finished with coasts yet. ..

One of the features I have noticed along this Emerald Coast in Florida is a number of air force bases and yesterday, shortly after leaving Panama City, Mark cycled past Tyndall Air Force base.

It takes in 29,000 acres of land, extending well to the south east of the runway complex.

Seawards of the base is another set of barrier islands as described in yesterday's posting and separated from the mainland by the sheltered waters of St Andrew Sound ..... Further along the coast, almost at the point where Mark headed inland, is another significant feature of coastal deposition. The feature is a spit and as far as students of geography are concerned, spits are to coasts as ox bow lakes are to rivers. Few have seen them but they can all write about them!
Spits are formed when the currents which take beach material along a coastline by a process known as longshore drift, continue on beyond a point where the coast changes direction. This could be at a headland as here in Florida or it can be at the mouth of an estuary like the Humber in England where it has resulted in the formation of Spurn Head. Sometimes, as here at Cape San Blas, the spit may become 'recurved' if prevailing winds and tides drive the sediment back towards the shore....

There is a short animation here which shows how spits are formed .

This aerial view of the spit which is part of the St Joseph State park in Florida shows the typical features of parallel dune ridges at the recurved tip. and the image below from Flickr shows the seaward side of the spit looking north.

Mark turned inland at Port St Joe opposite the tip of the spit and very quickly left the coastal environment behind. Beaches quickly give way to forest in this part of Florida. As a state, Florida is well forested. It has 25,000 square miles of forest which is half of the state's area. The forests are in both private and state ownership producing 650 million cubic metres of timber and a huge number of timber products annually. Surprisingly (to me at any rate) Florida's highest value agricultural product is trees. Over $16.6 billion is infused into Florida's economy from the manufacturing and distribution of forest products each year.

The first part of the route inland took Mark through many miles of commercial forest with evidence in places of clearfelling and reafforestation. As he approached Gaskins Still and Wewahitchka, the commercial forests gave way to the swamp natural forests on the floodplain of the Apalachicola river and its tributary the Chipola. And here are the second 'meanderings' - this time on the river itself...
After all these months of looking at rivers across the globe, I feel confident I can leave you to explain what you are seeing here! However, what you won't see from this altitude is that there are many small rafts on the river Apalachicola... They are floating bee hives and they are linked to a very unique product of the region - Tupelo honey! The town of Wewawitchika is the global centre of Tupelo honey production as explained here.... and here the website of the company who dominate production.

North of Wewawitchika lies the Dead Lakes so named bacause deposition from the Apalachicola blocked the mouth of the Chipola causing it to dam up and flood its valley. Dead Lakes State Recreation Area activities include hiking, fishing, boating, camping and nature viewing. Among the wildlife of the park are foxes, cotton rats, racoons, deer , beavers, turtles, snakes and alligators. A variety of trees can be found in the park, including longleaf pines, magnolia and cypress trees.

>Beyond Dead Lakes Mark meandered his way north toward the border with Georgia where he stopped last night just south of Lake Seminole at the town of Sneads. Lake Seminole was formed by damming the Chattahoochee and Flint rivers which flow into the lake from the north and east respectively. The Jim Woodruff lock and dam impounds the lake from which the main outflow is the Apalachicola river.